The “Bread and Salt” tradition / Alexander Tikhonov / foto-planeta
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But there were also the rewards. After finishing our meal and we got dessert: nut or fruit filled kolaski, poviticia with cream cheese, or any of a variety of cookies. They were well worth the wait.
Poviticia |
The importance of food in my novels was expressed in one harrowing scene from Slogans: Our Children, Our Future, in which Stepha and Vanya are caught in an artillery bombardment. Stepha comforts his little brother by conjuring up memories of meals past.
* * *
“I'm hungry,” Vanya said after several more distant
explosions.
“Me, too. When this
is over maybe Mati will make us eggs.
Fried in butter with crispy brown edges.” Ka-rump. “And maybe sausage. Do you like sausage?”
Vanya attempted to nod, but couldn't raise his head. “Yes,” Vanya said, “but I would rather have blini. I miss Babushka Koscik's blini.” Ka-rump.
“With slivki and berries.”
“I like blini, too,” said Stepha.
The two huddled together and talked of food. They spoke of plemei with balls of
minced meat and varenki filled with berries or potato. Ka-rump. Kolobok topped with a dollop of sour
cream and buttermilk fresh from the churn.
They envisioned honey cakes, priohi and mushrooms in cream. Ka-rump. Ka-rump.
Vanya recalled the cream they scraped off the frozen milk
when their mother wasn't looking and how they would eat it with their hands
before it thawed. “And Dadushka's
lamb. I liked how he cooked lamb.”
In another scene, the breaking of the Christmas fast is celebrated with generous helpings of Grandfather's sausage and customary Yuletide treats; and later in the story, Stepha is welcomed to manhood through a ritual of borscht and black bread.
* * *
Borscht and black bread. |
* * *
After his fifth spoon, Boris pointed at his oldest
grandson. “Stefan Mataovich,” Boris
said, “come sit with me.” At first
Stepha didn't move, but when his mother motioned to him, he followed his
grandfather's command and took the spot to Boris' right.
“Lena, bring this young man a proper bowl.” Stepha's mother scurried to the shelf and
pulled down a wooden vessel, wiped it with her apron and placed it in front of
her son. “Give him borscht,”
Boris said. “If he is to be a man, he
will have to learn to eat like a man.”
* * *
Stepha's grandfather shows him how to slurp soup and chump garlic seasoned black bread like a man. Stepha later mimics his grandfather's lesson when he assumes the role as the head of the family and instructs Vanya through the same ritual.I believe it is the small details, such as food, that transports the reader to foreign counties and customs, and brings the historic fiction genre to life.